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Master of Wine Sarah Jane Evans includes David González among Rioja’s most influential free spirits in Decanter

The Spanish wine expert names David Gonzalez, along with his professional partner Juan Antonio Leza, among the ten producers in the region who write their own rules

04 of October of 2018

The Master of Wine Sarah Jane Evans includes David González, along with Juan Antonio Leza, both of whom are at the helm of the GÓMEZ CRUZADO winery, among her selection of ten Rioja producers who "write their own rules", in an article published in DECANTER portraying "the most influential free spirits" in this denomination of origin.

Rioja, Spain’s most famous wine region, is surely too classical and altogether too famous to have renegades. Yet depending on how you define the term, Rioja certainly does have its fair share. ‘A person who deserts and betrays an organisation, country or set of principles’ sounds a rather harsh descriptor of those producers who choose to follow their own path along the winding Banks of the river Ebro”, remarks the Spanish wine expert.

Evans elaborates, noting that the featured winemakers “have diverse reasons for qualifying as renegades”. “What unites them is their approach to regulation”, she adds. “These producers are choosing to make wines according to their own rules. In this way they are one step ahead of regulatory body the Consejo Regulador, as they were with village wines and single vineyards. More tweaks to the rules are likely to come from the practices of these producers”.

In her article, Master of Wine Sarah Jane Evans highlights the rapid transformation achieved by David González and his viticulture partner Juan Antonio Leza, both of whom direct GÓMEZ CRUZADO, the boutique winery of the Barrio de la Estación. “The duo are less renegades and more innovators”, Evans clarifies.

Evans reminds readers: “HONORABLE is their classic Rioja, but keep an eye out for exciting new releases from them, which focus on terroir wines”, as the cool, higher-altitude Garnacha PANCRUDO. The Master of Wine goes on to note: “Their white wines are particularly interesting: notably MONTES OBARENES, named after its chilly mountain origin, the 2015 a blend of Viura with 25% Tempranillo Blanco, which is partially fermented and aged in concrete eggs”.

 

 

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